by Barbara Bicego
This is the first of my contributions to this blog. If you are an Australian woman who has had some kind of sustained involvement with Bali, such as being a repeat holiday maker over many years, business interests in the past or present, other personal commitments, or are an expatriate living in Bali, my research may be of interest to you. In early 2005 I was immensely privileged when the owner of this blog Professor Adrian Vickers agreed to supervise my PhD project researching the experiences of Australian women in Bali. This is a brief introduction to my research, and a little information about me. I hope you will find the project sufficiently interesting that you may consider being interviewed yourself, or maybe pass my contact details on to someone you know. I am interested in reading any comments you may wish to contribute here on the blog, on any issue that touches on Australian women in Bali, and I interpret this very broadly. So if you love Bali, or your feelings are more restrained, I am interested in hearing from you. As very little has been written about Australian women in Bali and their experiences, and my research is the first on the topic, we can start discussion anywhere. Maybe you would like to comment on your favourite place in Bali and why it matters to you, or changes you have witnessed over the years. Maybe you are an Australian woman who has grown up visiting Bali, and would like to comment on what this means for you.
Australians have been travelling to Bali for diverse reasons for many years, yet no research has specifically explored this phenomenon. No-one has asked Australian women what their experiences of Bali mean for them, and how this impacts on their sense of self. In this study I seek to throw some light on this issue. How Australian women see their lives being affected by their experiences in Bali is an important issue that warrants in-depth study, with their views being included in the historical record. Through the research I am trying to answer some basic questions. What attracts Australian women to Bali? What keeps them going back, and maybe making it their work or career focus, regular holiday destination or home? What is happening for women who form enduring relationships of some kind with Balinese? What impact do women see their experiences having in their own and other’s lives across time? Bali is noted for having had profound impacts in the lives and thought of intellectual luminaries such as Alfred Russel Wallace in the 19th Century, Margaret Mead and Gregory Bateson, and Australian artist Donald Friend in the 20th Century. In the 1950s Nehru the first Prime Minister of independent India described Bali as ‘the morning of the world’, a phrase that has been repeated many times since then. In light of this the following questions are also considered. What is it about Bali that outsiders can go there and find that their thinking, ideas and lives have been changed? How is it that Bali seems to foster the special qualities wherein change is conceived of and happens? How might Australian women see their lives being changed through their encounters with Bali and what does this mean for them?
This study grew out of my long-term fascination with the questions I have just raised. During the 1980s my parents and other relatives were regular visitors to Bali. On one occasion in the late 1980s several members of my immediate and extended family were in Bali. When a friend encouraged me to go to Bali with her I responded that I thought Indonesia was already overburdened with my relatives, and I would be doing Bali a favour by staying away. To me it seemed a peculiar thing that so many Australians, my relatives included, were so intent on going to Bali, and across the years I have maintained an interest in wanting to know why. I visited Bali for the first time in 2006, and so I am a late bloomer in comparison to most of you who are reading this.
Interviews for this project are minimally structured as I am interested in women have time to discuss what is important for them. In interviews women will be asked to reflect on and discuss their experiences of Bali in the broader context of their life circumstances. Prompts for women for discussion:
1. how they see their experiences of Bali affecting their sense of self, and actions in the world;
2. their subjective, embodied experiences of Bali, particularly as these relate to the experiences of the senses, e.g. sights, sounds, smells, tastes, touch and visceral sensations, along with associated affect, and how these have impacted them;
3. times, occasions, and situations when they might have experienced some discernable ‘shift’ in attitudes, opinions, and approaches to themselves, and life arising from their experiences in Bali; and
4. ordinary day to day things about life in Bali that they think have been important in shaping the person they are, and their approach to life.
Women are able to bring to the interview anything that they think might facilitate memory and discussion, e.g. photos, and mementoes.
Crucial biographical details about me are that I am a late Bali bloomer (and baby boomer), who is willing to travel to hear your stories. I will be carrying out interviews for my project over the next 18 months, and am looking forward to hearing from anyone who is interested in being interviewed, or contributing comments on the blog. I am a very keen cook with an interest in traditional substantial food. Over the years I have maintained an interest in Australian colonial cooking, and inspired by my reading for my PhD project I am currently perfecting Owen Stanley cake, a spicy colonial Queensland fruit cake that draws on the flavours of the Indies. While in Bali last year I went on Janet De Neefe’s Ubud market tour, and participated in her cooking class, thoroughly enjoyed it, and learned a great deal. I was especially interested in the spices, and other ingredients for sale in the market place, and used in the cooking.
Regards,
Late Bali bloomer,
Barbara
PhD Candidate
Faculty of Arts, University of Sydney
bbic9841@usyd.edu.au
Comments
The first time I went to Bali was in 1975 and I had just turned 18. I traveled with my sister who has just turned 18 and it was our journey without our parents. In those days there were no direct flights to Bali from Perth so we had to change flights in Jakarta. This was the beginning of many confusing events.
My sister and I assumed that our travel agent had taken care of everything and all we needed to do was to turn up and expect to be herded from place to place.
Immediately a tour operator showed my sister and I a list for his tour bus with our names on it- still a mystery how that happened as we had no plans to stay in Java. Back to the airport and our transit flight to Bali.
Our plane arrived we lined up with our tickets yet were not allowed to board, unfortunately no one told us about airport tax. We were berated and dismissed in Bahasa Indonesian and it wasn’t until we missed our flight and my sister broke down in tears of stress, that someone took pity on us and directed us to the Tax counter. Four hours later we were on our way to Bali.
Waiting for us with a worried smile displaying our names was the Balinese man that I had ever encountered. His name was Ketut a handsome young man, resplendent in his “pakaian adat” complete with a frangipani behind his ear. Ketut expressed how worried he and his company was when we didn’t arrive on our plane. We were ushered into a waiting Four Seasons tour vehicle which ferried through the busy evening streets of Denpasar on to our Hotel the Grand Bali Beach in Sanur.
We were in another world. The smell of humidity, the sounds of the gamelan and the sights of the exotic filled our senses. We had finally reached our destination, time to relax and enjoy the “Island of the Gods Bali!”
Most days were booked with tours. Tours to Kintamani, Ubud, Basket weaving, silver, and batik factories. Most guides were professional and organized, however on one occasion my sister and I were on a day trip with two middle aged Australian teachers from Queensland things became a little strange. One of the teachers took a shine to the guide and became increasingly and embarrassingly obvious with her flirtations with him. Her insistence to snuggle close to him in the front of the vehicle. caused amused my sister and I who were sitting on the back seat. Despite the tenacity of this woman the guide took every opportunity to touch me . this took the form of playing with my, then long hair and repeatedly pinching me on the inside of my arms He even went so far in pushing his enamored client out of the car whilst preventing me form exiting with my sister. This disturbed me as I didn’t know whether this was some sort of Balinese custom and what me response should be. Eventually the others returned and we made it safely back to the hotel.
During this holiday my sister was struggled with culture shock, so when not participating in organized tours we remained close to the Hotel and the adjoining beach markets. This frustrated me somewhat so when a couple of young men fresh from Java invited to take us to Kuta. This terrified my sister however I assured her that we were going to be safe and not to worry. Kuta in those days was very different to the Kuta today. Tracks, shacks and Australian “hippies” (code for dole bludger) On arrival courtesy of a crowded bajaj filled with people chickens and baskets of rice, our guides were keen to introduce us to the wonders of magic mushrooms and topless bathing (this while the guys were sweating in brand new jeans and long sleeved shirts). We resisted both. After many labored efforts made by the lads to separate us from each other they gave up and escorted us back to the Hotel in Sanur the Hotel where aging American women also liked to sunbathe topless or burst into tears because the locals don’t understand how important it is to have hamburgers on the menu.
Other experiences included:
Ketut our original guide invited my sister and I to his village for the wedding of his best friend. During this he told me of the many incidences of Australian girls falling in love with Balinese boys only to find out that it the cultural differences were too great. Pity Ketut was seriously cute!
Another guide told me about the Balinese concern of the impact that tourism would have on their culture; especially the concern that children would resort to begging as an easy way to make money.
Finally, on the flight back to Perth, again in the transit lounge in Jakarta airport we discover that our plane was going to be delayed for 6 hours. Cathy Pacific thoughtful gave us vouchers for food and drinks however it was late and all shops and vendors were closed for the evening. Most of the passengers we connected up with were on their way home from the then fashionable travel destination of Singapore. Many grizzled and moaned about the situation but did little to resolve the situation of drinking water we had none! Plucking up nerve I asked a heavily armed uniformed security guard for water, he nodded and in no time he had organized a water cooler with cups for all to enjoy.
Quenched and resigned to a long wait passengers made themselves comfortable on the airport floors and benches. Pretty soon the room was filled with snoring and heavy breathing including my sister. Yes I was the only one awake, and no matter how hard I tried to play possum my heavily armed benefactor noticed and made his move. The conversation went something like this:
“I can see that you can’t sleep maam”.
“No the seats are really uncomfortable”
Really, look the plane wont be here for sometime how about you come with me and “I’ll show you the sights of Jakarta?”
“But its dark I wont see anything”>
“Maam maybe you would like to have a beer in my office”
“Thanks but I don’t drink beer,” I’m happy to wait here thank you (nervous grin)”
“But you are Australian all Australian’s drink beer.”
“Sorry but I don’t”
This cat and mouse game went on for hours with me smiling politely and brutally pinching my sister in the hope that she would wake up.
So that is the story of my first visit to Bali. Many years later I went back, this time after I had started studying Bahasa Indonesian. I have had many adventures and learnt a lot about Indonesian men and their motivations to engage with Australian women.
(I am currently doing many readings for my own thesis intention statement for an Honours course in Asian Studies.. I may call on you for a perspective or two if that is ok)
Sampai Jumpa lagi Bu Carmen
Posted by: carmen doyle | November 20, 2008 03:57 PM
I first visited Bali in 1994 while travelling with my husband and our 3 children as part of a 6 week adventure to various parts of Indonesia. My first experience, therefore, were the usual tourist hotspots, and I have to say I found the sight of Australians barbequeing themselves on the beach during the day and drinking themselves silly at night not particularly attractive! I have never understood why anyone would go outside Australia to do what you can do at home. I know, I'm making wild generalisations here, but it does seem to be a common theme for many western tourists in the southern beach areas of Bali.
You don't have to go far, however, to find a very different environment. The dry more sparsely vegetated north western and western part of the island dotted with small poor fishing villages is in stark contrast with the more tropical lushness of southern and central regions that are increasingly changing so as to accommodate the 'needs' of foreign tourists who come for the luxury resorts. These places take a bit more difficult effort to access, but can be a wonderful experience for those wanting to see the "real" Bali as opposed to tourist Bali.
More recently I spent 18 months living and working in East Java (up to Feb 2007), and went to Bali on occasions to pick up friends and family who were visiting and entering Indonesia via Bali, and once to escape Ramadan. Each time I noticed a distinct change in the way people responded to us once we got off the ferry in Bali - people were more business-like to deal with and I found generally less friendly compared to Java where I guess foreigners are more of a novelty than in Bali. There was also much underlying tension between the Balinese and the Javanese. I met many Javanese working on the beach around Sanur who were keen to take advantage of the fact that tourism still existed in Bali - it had been devastated in Java, and in a country that has no social security system, people go where they can find work. I also met Balinese who expressed their contempt for the Javanese. It was an interesting side to a people who are usually described by all and sundry as the "peaceful and friendly Balinese", not to mention a little unexpected. I guess they're as human as the rest of us, and view "the other" with a certain amount of suspicion.
I have mixed feelings about Bali. I have no particular desire to visit again, which is in part due to a stronger personal connection with Java, and in part due to reservations I have about the impact of tourism and western influence on the local culture. I understand that cultures change constantly, and all cultures are subject to external influences. I can also appreciate that tourism creates many opportunities for local people and this is a significant consideration in a developing country. But my main concern is that tourists are loving Bali to death, and there is a very real danger of losing the very things they go there for (and I don't mean those who just go for the cheap beer and beaches).
Posted by: Louise | June 13, 2008 08:53 PM
Hi All,
I came apon this site while researching living in Bali,my story is a little different than the few I read, as in I have never been to Bali before, I live in Sydney Australia, and my partner has just been offered a great job prospect running a flying school in the North of Bali. I have been trying to find out as much as I can about the life people and culture and trying to,decided if I can or could live there. In my research I have found conflicting stories and its all left me so confused.. but I will be travelling to Bali in June to take a look at everything. This sounds like an amazing oppotunity for us and a life changing experiace...one Im trying to keep an open mind about. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Posted by: Deborah Hudgell | May 14, 2008 03:13 PM
I came across this site by accident while doing some personal research on Bali. I have been visiting Bali for nearly thirty years and have very strong attachments to people there and their culture.
My primary interest is in Art and for some time now, the art of Balinese and Indonesian artists. I am willing to be interviewed for your thesis if it is of any value to you.
I have an MA in Asian Studies from Monash Univeristy and have researched artists in Java and Bali over the years and in doing so have developed a strong and familial relationship with Agung Rai and family of the ARMA museum as well as other long-term friends. I can certainly see many changes and developments there but each time I visit, the Balinese character of my friends remains inexorably Balinese, regardless of their experiences outside Bali of Western culture.
Posted by: Alison Taylor | May 3, 2008 04:06 PM
Hi,
I have visited Bali about 32 times since 1974.
Have spent about 117 months there altogether and always stay at the same hotel.
Love the fact that altho things change, they stay the same.
several of my friends from Bali have come and stayed with me in Australia.
Posted by: Ann | April 30, 2008 06:52 AM
Hi there, I am very interested in your research and have just returned from my 3rd holiday in Bali. (The first was in 1981 and the 2nd in 2005) Each visit has been spectacularly different and yet familiar of course in terms of its people climate, flora/ fauna etc. I am greatly interested in the social/ economic questions raised by our interaction with the every-day Balinese who can hardly ever hope to raise their stndard of living above subsistance. i am interested in the intelligence of under-schooled people who can teach themselves English through songs and music & conversation with tourists, who strive for a better life, in the face of
a corrupt bureaucracy, where (and i was told this more than once) where the rich stay rich and the poor stay poor ...
i would be intersted to further share some of my observations and experiences... I'll be going back again soon!
Posted by: Marilyn | March 30, 2008 04:58 PM
I have just arrived back from Bali for the 2nd time. Now I'm going to go back and live and work! I'm 22yr old female and on this last trip I felt like I should be staying there, I don't know why. Now i'm looking into everything I will need to know to go and work (hopefully at hotels) over there. The people are amazing, everyone is friendly unlike where I'm from (Australia) I felt safe at night, just a sense of calm. Loved it and would love to fall in love with an Indo man. I met many and seem very kind and sweet.
Posted by: Joanne | February 25, 2008 10:12 AM
Barbara, your research sounds interesting...as with many researchers of Indonesia, i have just spent a few days in Bali on my return from fieldwork in Java. The contrast between Bali and Java is stark. Whilst in Bali this time round i stayed in a family run garment production business. Fascinating, and not at all resembling a sweat shop. The way in which 'work' and 'rest' are lived amazed me.
Posted by: tracy | January 29, 2008 02:24 AM
I have already contacted you Barbara, but would like to add a brief few comments here on the blog.
First of all, I love Bali very much, especially the people.
I have many Balinese friends, as one would hope after 28 visits to the beautiful island.
I first visited the island with my husband back in 1986 from 18/7 until 18/8. I rememebr lying awake at nights and listening to the marching men blowing their whistles and wondering what on earth they were doing. These were men that worked from very early in the morning to late into the afternoon or early evening and then they would march for hours during the night and well into the early hours of the morning blowing these, what I imagined becasue of the terrible sound produced, tin beetle whistles. I asked one of my Balinese women friends in the morning and she told me that the men were marching to prepare for the Independence Day celebrations. I did listen during Social Studies lessons, but I had no idea when and from whom the Indonesians were celebrating their independence.
There in itself started my great interest not only in the beauty of the island and its people, but in her history and everything about her that I could find out. I went on from there to teach myself the language and then include it in my teaching career becoming the Indonesian language teacher for this district. Some of the happiest days of my life.
I could go on and on, but will leave it here for this time.
Jenny Rae
My experiences are many and varied. Good and very good. They certainly outweigh the not so good.
My favourite place in Bali is Lovina Beach. The sand is so firm and the water just beautiful.
Posted by: Jennifer Rae Stewart | January 28, 2008 12:32 AM